May in Rome: Jasmine, Crowds, and the Eternal City Makes Room
Monthly Letter from the city in full bloom—on music, marches, mess and a rhythm that somehow holds all the beauty in between
With fragrant jasmine and loquat trees in bloom, May was a month of continued expansion in this city that somehow always makes room for more.
From the Primo Maggio Concertone to the Papal Conclave and subsequent inauguration of Pope Leo XIV, followed by the city’s usual calendar of cultural events, Rome swelled to near capacity. Overall, the city has been a graceful host. This, despite the ongoing Giubileo upgrades and disruptions, the often challenging traffic, transportation detours (and scioperi…), and a steady rhythm of marches and music.
Just yesterday, 50,000 people attended a concert at the Circo Massimo while another 20,000 marched in protest of the government’s proposed security decree. Today, streets were once again blocked for the final stage of the Giro d’Italia, stretching from Vatican City to the Colosseum.
May was as full as the jasmine blooms, carrying us right to the Festa della Repubblica on June 2. The highlight for me was the first day of the Papal Conclave at St. Peter’s Square. We stood in the square, thousands of us, eyes on the chimney, waiting for the fumata bianca to rise—its pale smoke the quiet signal that a new pope had been chosen: now, Pope Leo XIV.
A few highlights from May’s cultural calendar that I so enjoyed:
Museums open late into the night (Notte dei Musei)
Roses in full bloom at Il Roseto Comunale
Festa della Lettura tucked into Rome’s more quiet corners
Open House Roma opening doors across the city
A long list of places ordinarily closed to the public were open this weekend thanks to Open House Roma. I visited the Horti Sallustiani, which I’d never seen from below before, and the spiral staircase beneath Villa Medici that connects to the Acqua Vergine aqueduct system—definitely worth the dizzying descent to see stalactites and the flowing water that feeds the Barcaccia fountain at the Spanish Steps.
The weather is generally just right in May and the evening sky glows in a Giotto blue that I am convinced only occurs during this month. It’s a bewitching blue that causes nonni to take their hats off and exclaim “bel cielo” while I smile in agreement leaning back on a bench, holding a soft gaze to the sky till the bats bounce between constellations.
These are the nights for lovely walks and a taste of gelato with friends and for enjoying the city before the torrid summer arrives.
Making/Eating: Liquore alle nespole from a nearby loquat tree. It’s my first time and I’ll tell you how it goes! It’s a very simple recipe someone gave me at the mercato.
Reading: Una Torta per Dirti Addio by journalist and Cook editor Angela Frenda. It’s an ode to food writing and Nora Ephron.
Watching: Il Deserto Rosso, a film directed by Michelangelo Antonioni. It’s an assignment for a photography course I’m taking, a study on color.
Till June, a presto!
Michelle
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Rome in May sounds perfect. I'm so interested to read that you're doing a photography course. I always admire the beautifully thoughtful images you capture with your camera.
You're so right about the Rome evenings in May. We had an aperitvo outside at a cafe last week and it was pure bliss. Love that first photo of the Rome Pittrice as well!