December Newsletter
Rome in December
Dear Reader,
Monthly newsletters are supposed to be newsy and I’m afraid this one isn’t. This is more of a letter I suppose. Or a ramble as per my usual fashion. I try very hard to just write short blurbs but I seem unable to… I’ve read it to you below to give your eyes a break.
(*Press play to listen to me read it to you)
I’m writing to you in that sliver of light that appears between saying good morning and good night as we approach the longest night of the year (in the Northern Hemisphere). It’s been a rainy start to December in Rome but it’s usually rainy this time of year here, something that I tend to forget.
The holiday season officially kicked off on December 8 with l’Immacolata celebrations. It rained during Pope Francis’ visit to the Column of the Immaculate Conception where earlier the Vigili del Fuoco had climbed up a 27 meter firetruck ladder to place their yearly offering of a flower wreath on the statue of the Madonna. I had gone to Piazza Mignanelli the day before hoping to get a glimpse of the Madonna’s naked wrist. By that I mean without the wreath she wears all year long. I caught a glimpse of it as the RAI tv crews were setting up and barricades were being put in place for the following day.Â
I knew I wouldn’t go at sunrise the next day to keep the firefighters company, mostly because after two years of restrictions on holiday celebrations, it would be particularly packed. And it was. Plus it rained. Not that it kept anyone from going. I really should have gone because I got up to watch the live broadcast anyway. I don’t know why.Â
Earlier in the week I had been to the Sant’Andrea delle Fratte church, and after wandering the courtyard and admiring the two original Bernini angels that are kept there, I prayed the rosary. I have a complicated relationship with the Catholic Church but I felt a call to go and pray.
I scanned the bright blue poster affixed to the church doors announcing all the Immacolata events and my eye kept drifting to the wreath on the Madonna’s arm.
This yearly gift on her feast day from the Roman firefighters hangs from her wrist like a charm on a bracelet. The wreath is huge, and the appointed firefighter slings it over his shoulder, like a damsel dressed in white, and bravely climbs to the Madonna’s arm where he respectfully places it. It’s a bit terrifying but also poignant to watch.Â
(Click here to watch the Vigili go up the ladder)
I often find myself looking up at the Column of the Immacolata as I walk by the Spanish Steps. I track her circle of fragrant petals as it dries and fades across the seasons until it becomes a quiet shade of brown. I think what I wanted the morning of December 8 was to see her white rose bracelet up close, freshly made. Maybe I wanted to tuck my silent prayers into the petals and have them raised up to her.Â
I stayed home and broke into our first panettone of the season and like the rest of Italy put up our Christmas lights.
In the evening Mayor Gualtieri lit up the Christmas Tree on Piazza Venezia and Via del Corso went ablaze in holiday cheer. Centro storico by night is always beautiful, the monuments are made more magnificent with a backlight, but with the added sparkle of holiday lights lining the streets Rome is even more elegant. She is festive but demure.Â
And so here we are mid-way through the month and almost at year’s end. Â
I’ll end by thanking you Dear Reader for supporting my writing and creative journey. Thank you for reading and subscribing to Letters from Rome. Whether you are a free or paid subscriber I am so grateful that you’ve opened your inbox to my words. I will see you in 2023 with the continuation of my Italian Alphabet series and more.
Wishing you so much merriment and joy this holiday season,
~ Michelle
If you’ve missed some of my previous posts inspired by the Italian Alphabet you can click on a letter to read: A, B, C, D, E, F, G, H I,L, M , N, O, P, they are available to paid subscribers but I leave a few of them unlocked here and there if you’d like to take a read.
You may have noticed that the letters J and K are missing - it’s not a mistake. They are not part of the original Italian Alphabet.
I write memoir and I write letters from Rome, actual physical letters. You can click on the links below to find out more about me and my work. I’d love to send you some mail. Thanks for reading and a presto!